African_Dispatches

A travel blog

Saturday, March 25, 2006

Rhythm and music

So much to write about as we are encountering new situations all the time. We finally seem to have the hang of looking right first, then left as we cross the motorways, and the heat & humidity (even here in nairobi) is slowing our walking gait to a moderate pace. We are staying in the CBD (Central Business District) right across from Nairobi University, which is a bustling inner-city campus with a pleasant griouping of buildings that seem to have been built in the 60s and 70s. Its a quick walk to everything downtown and Hung has been quite adventurous during the days while I've been out with Cathy on the outskirts of town.

Hung and I like to walk and since most things are not far from one another or difficult to navigate (and we aren't in a hurry), we often walk from one spot to another. We are often the only mzungu (white/foreigners) walking. Yesterday we walked to an area of town just Northwest of the main center called Westlands. There were no sidewalks, but alot of folks walking along the small road. We made our way into the area & started to explore. Hung is pretty fearless in this regard - poking into incredible latticeworks of public stalls to see what people are selling. After checking out a series of nyama choma stands (bbq meat, usually beef - very popular here) Hung found a stand that had chicken and we plunked down in the midst of all the workers (did I mention I'm also usually the only woman other than the servers?) and had a really deliscious meal of kuku choma, some finely cut greens and diced tomato with hot peppers (Kenyan salsa) and a chapati. yum.

Last night we went to hear a "spotlight" music show at the Alliance Francaise in downtown. A great scene. Very mixed, as was the music which showcased new talent. The second performer was dressed in some kind of campy calf-skin outfit; he was singing a few popular songs so everyone rushed to the stone dancefloor (the concert was outside in a courtyard). There were others playing dance music with traditional instruments and a woman singing feminist songs (her introduction to the songs indicated this, but because they were in swahili, I can't say the exact message), and a very successful crossdresser who was also layered with traditional and modern garb. He/she (everyone was screaming afterward) was very talented on the marimba as well. It would take me too long to describe the audience for all of this, but there were lots of groovy hip-dressed africans, some rastafarians, a gaggle of ex-pats, lots of kids - was a really fun night.

Here is a picture of Cathy pregnant(!)
pregnant Cathy

Just now I'll sign off as we are catching a matatu to head up toward Mt. Kenya for a few nights - a little preview road trip after acclimating at my friend's apartment. Hung has said he will post something soon - he is having his own personal battle with "the mozzies. You'll have to hear more from him...

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