African_Dispatches

A travel blog

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

the fine white sands of Zanzibar...

We just returned back to Dar from Zanzibar.

Stone Town Zanzibar

We spent two nights in Stone Town (the old port area with winding streets, beautifully carved doors, and pleasant streetlife), and then went on to the eastern shore to see what all the fuss was about. wow. It was exceptionally beautiful - the sand was so white and so fine that it seemed more like lime than sand. The water was a crystal turquoise color. The sky was a constant drama - it is supposed to be the seasons of "the long rains" now, and we did get caught in a downpour when departing, but other than that it has been quite nice, with the added benefit of being able to negotiate lower rates and not have so many other tourists. Of course we are hoping for rains for the people here, though from what I have read, there is now flooding in Nairobi and other parts of Kenya, from too much rain at once.

Bwejuu am

The little village we were near is called Bwejuu, and there was lots of village life coming and going along with the tides. Women in their kangas gathering seaweed and sisal in the mornings and net fishing in the afternoons. We stayed in a sweet little thatched bungalow right on the beach. They prepared simple meals and we could go for log walks on the beach.

cabin Evergreen

I finally did get sick. I guess it was just as well that it was somewhere pleasant that we were planning to stay for several days, as I promptly came down with a flu. A high fever, aches & pains, the runs, etc. Of course malaria has the same symptoms in its early stages, so after a full day & a night of being completely wasted in bed, not eating, I asked Hung to help me with our little malaria test kit. It is hard to figure out strange medical instructions when you have a high fever. We finally managed to get a blood sample (don't ask!) and Hung valiantly prepared the test and 20 minutes later we discovered I was non-reactive. I was so relieved I immediately fell into a long sleep and when I woke up several hours later I felt a bit better. By evening the fever had broken & by the next afternoon I was out in a boat snorkelling!

In any case, we are here in Dar for a few nights (back in our little ramshackle spot where Mission Street dead-ends at Mosque Avenue) taking care of final business before we go down to the Selous Game Reserve. I'll try & take some more time tomorrow to post pictures, but it has been difficult since very few if any computers have USB connections.

2 Comments:

At 6:46 AM, Blogger Tony Allard said...

Hello Ya'l

wow! what a travelogue. greatly appreciate your vivid descriptions, particularly the ones of the landscape and the weather. it is amazing how much you are traveling in such a short time, but at a pace that allows for the local vectors of past and present impressions conscious and sub_conscious to arrive in memorable form. bummer 'bout your getting the flu/bug, but it sounds like your comaseva handled it a-o-k. when kd and i were in oaxaco i actually got a gentle spanking from the anchients and had to go horizontal for the better part of a day in the hotel. we had a fabuloso trip and will have to get together when you return and swap stories.

sd/usa is same 'ol same ol' political jangles, but the spring rains have brought the best from the beauty font here to normal heights, providing the inexorable twing of irony to life in the latter stages of capitolismo. senior seminar is going great and i have been asked back in the fall to give it another go. couldn't be happer 'bout that.

looking at the jushua tree music festival flyer on my desk and making plans to attend(19th-21st may) will you be back by then? kd is planning a trip to nyc at semester's end to get schooled in Max and Jitter at Harvestworks. i hope to catch a bit of the time there with her. then we are headed up to the great lakes to start building the door house. very jazzed about it and are already inviting EVERYONE to come and stay. we are building a loft for guests who can also take over the wet or dry studio and work on their work. hope you can make it some day.

gotta get to work on the next Art Around Adams, which is scheduled for Sat June 3.
Will be full on in the car wash and up and down the avenue. sushi has come onboard and will be paying two of its artists to do performances that night! yeaaaaah.

for now and then,
ox la bone and kd

 
At 1:34 PM, Blogger Ken Brunk said...

Hey, I've been to Bwejuu a number of times and stay at the Twisted Palms out of habit. Since they did away with their second floor verandah it is not as pleasurable. Where did you guys stay and can you recommend it? Go to brunklog.blogspot for a couple of pictures. Salaama sana

 

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